By Noora Sobhani
Back in February 2023, the fall and winter fashion trends were decided by the world’s four biggest fashion capitals–New York, London, Milan and Paris. These cities host the most anticipated fashion events, with fashion weeks happening twice a year. Fashion enthusiasts were presented with haute-couture designers’ predictions six months before the current season. Designers gave fashionistas and retail companies direct insight into what would be “à la mode” for the upcoming seasons. Below are this fall’s hottest predictions and Toronto Metropolitan University (TMU) students’ take on them.
No Secrets to be Kept Here
In many TV shows, including Gossip Girl, it was a crime to go out in a dress that was not properly lined. Now, we’re not so into keeping secrets. MIU MIU, Sid Neigum, Victoria Beckham, Givenchy and Cecilie Bahnsen graced the runway with variations of the trending transparent garments, baring chests and underwear alike in a seductive yet powerful manner. Designers created ultra-see-through dresses using different shades and textures to test the limits of near-nude fashion. Chanel model Lily-Rose Depp paid homage to ’90s Kate Moss in her famous transparent dress.
As Vogue writer Hannah Jackson says, “The sheer-dress trend, while varying in levels of (im)modesty, is inescapable, as barely concealed nipples, belly buttons and thongs have graced every red carpet from the Grammys to the Oscars.” But unlike previous decades, this anti-modest movement has taken flight from the runways, replacing the Little Black Dress on magazine covers and red carpets, becoming a sultry night-out look worldwide.
Skirts Circle Back to the Beginning of Time
We are no strangers to the micro skirt, but let me introduce you to the resurrected circle skirt. Associated directly with Christian Dior’s rebirth as a designer after serving in the war in the 1950s, the circle skirt has come full circle, being adopted by many designers this fall. Just above the ankle and perfectly constructed for a twirl, the midi circle skirt is making its comeback into the fashion scene. Dior dominated this year’s runway with their signature skirt, dressing models in dark and dramatic variations. Prada also revealed their new obsession with circle skirts, opting for lighter shades and fungi-like textures blooming from the fabric. The hem and shape of the skirt make it an effortless item to style and such a versatile staple in anyone’s wardrobe. Fashion blogger Copelyn Bengel declared the skirt “can even elevate your favourite old T-shirt.”
The No-Pants Club
A key takeaway from this past Fashion Week is that less is more. The statement not only refers to sheer fabric usage but also includes pants–or lack thereof. The no-pants club is taking new members and we’re all contemplating joining. Some designers revealed themselves as avid supporters of the no-pants club. Miu Miu, Dolce & Gabbana and Bally embraced the absence of bottoms, pairing panties with long leather jackets and detailed heels, leaning into an abundance of accessories to balance the bareness. As off-duty models and on-duty designers both abandon the pants at home, no pants have become a coveted look for this season. Hailey Bieber and Kendall Jenner have been MVPs of the trend, potentially due to the credit of their shared stylist, Dani Michelle—who was behind the viral look Jenner wore on her way out from a photoshoot—sporting black tights, heels and panties.
This trend has transformed into street fashion, using oversized blazers and jackets paired with micro skirts and shorts to create a less risqué illusion of the absence of trousers. Shorts designed to resemble some old-fashioned underwear have developed enough of a fan base to be named ‘bloomer shorts.’
A new take on a classic colour has been overwhelming the fall 2023 ready-to-wear collections of countless designers, including but not limited to Lanvin, Hermès, Chanel, Bally, Zuhair Murad and Alexander McQueen. Viva Magenta, a rich red deepened with purple undertones, could also be considered a “cherry red.” Emitting inspiration and experimentation, Viva Magenta is already ruling the fall season in the form of leather jackets and shoes. Many TMU students already have the shade on their shopping list. In fact, third-year creative industries student Vaughn Kelly said she’s already on the lookout for some leather Mary Janes in the deep colour.
This year’s fall collections will give fashionistas an array of options ranging from the classics–plaid, booties, infinity scarves–to the newest additions. From full circle skirts taking the spotlight from micro skirts to pants being ruled out as a whole and the new fall shade, the possibilities are endless. The more options, the more personalized an individual’s wardrobe can be. All of these vastly different trends communicate one standard message: wear what suits YOU.