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Pulp Kitchen: A quintessential Toronto food and drink tour

By Rebecca Katz

ATLAS 129 Peter Street

Atlas is one of the newer, fancier, high-priced restaurants/bars in Toronto. The maitre d’ guided us to a table on the second floor. I decided on the penne pasta at the steep price of $15, but it sounded worth it..garlic basil pesto, smoked chicken, roasted red and yellow peppers and goat cheese. My friend ordered the Romaine and Radicchio Salad (a Caesar salad) for $6.50. He had a scotch and a glass of wine, I had a glass of white wine too. I hated my dish, his was covered with garlic. Our waiter was less than professional, and the bill came to a staggering $56.00. The menu reads well, but you might consider eating from your paltry selection at home before you visit. Atlas’ priority is not food and the clientele doesn’t seem to mind. By the end of the evening I think I made eye contact with everyone in the three-floor bar, which has pool tables, television monitors, art, and some really funky vases. This place is definitely not a beer tent. No pitchers please. Wear expensive clothes, and try to come up with better lines than “Nice bum, where ya from?”

SNEAKY DEE’S 431 College Street

Your mother would have a heart attack if she found out that the doorman knew your first name. Its regulars include ravers, skinheads, punks, artists, musicians, and students. It has abandoned its origins as a venue for local musicians but it has kept the tradition and the volume. It’s busier than ever. Sneaky Dee’s has two floors that attract different crowds. Both offer pool tables, booths, tables, and graffiti. If you want to dance stick to the top floor. Whichever you choose, be sure to check out the skeletons that line the walls. Sneaky Dee’s is a great joint to sit around, put away a few drinks and grab some Tex/Mex. The menu offers you a choice of salads, chili, fries and full Mexican dinners (the most expensive of which is the steak or chicken Quesadilla at a competitive $8.85). I recommend the half price fajitas on Tuesdays and the nachos any time, they’re the best I’ve ever tried. 

An all day breakfast rounds off the menu and for $5.85 the daring can start their day with the Burro Favorito – scrambled eggs and sausage in a soft tortilla with Monterey Jack cheese and salsa mole accompanied by frijoles refritors and rice. Not that this has anything to do with breakfast, but a large pitcher of draught will run for $7.73 and a regular 20 ounce glass of the stuff is $3.59. Sneaky Dee’s is an upbeat place where you can drink yourself silly and still have money left to get home. Although drinks are taken away at 1:45 a.m. the doors and kitchen remain open until 3:00 a.m., which of course means you can eat their unbelievable nachos into the wee hours of the morning.

BAR ITALIA 584 College Street

Bar Italia is a small pool hall and eatery. It has an unassuming facade and a menu true to the Italian tradition, but it has become trendy to an assortment of Queen Street drifters. The variety of food is limited to salads, sandwiches, and desserts, all of which are fairly affordable. Noteworthy choices include Antipasto Eugenio for two (cured meats, marinated and raw vegetables, bocconcini, pecorino cheese and olives at $11) and panino Cubano (roast pork tenderloin sandwich pancetta, avocado and garlic mayonnaise at $6.95). Sandwiches are priced between five and seven dollars.

The coffee selection features 16 varieties of hot and cold coffees and teas. A neat little wine list (nothing over $30) and some interesting cold drinks and juices round out the menu. Pool tables are six to eight dollars per hour, depending on the number of players. Bar Italia is a good place to hang out because you can sit there for hours talking without having the cheque slammed down, insinuating it’s time to leave.

THE GUV’NOR 1240 Yonge Street

The Guv’nor does the pub thing well, offering a full compliment of youthful faces in well-scrubbed clothes. A regular pitcher of beer will run you a little under ten bucks and a pint is just under four. You can choose from 12 appetizers ($2.95 for soup to $8.95 for the super duper deluxe nachos). There are nine mostly typical salads ranging from $2.95 to $7.95. Sandwich classics and burgers start at $6, infinite pizza combinations ($7 to $8), pasta, some varied entrees and some good old fashion pub grub. You can also get an all day breakfast for $6.50

The service staff are the friendliest I’ve ever come across. Sporting events play on all five televisions, including a big screen. The Guv’ also offers a pool table, juke box, pinball machine and a video game. The pub is decorated in the Victorian tradition with pictures of the Royal family on the walls. And when the bar closes, you can always sober up at the coffee shop upstairs.

THE MIDTOWN 552 College Street

The Midtown is appropriately named: Mid-priced, with a mid-sized patio and they serve mid-sized portions. The menu includes mango shrimp ($3), Hummus with Pita ($2.75) and delectable sandwiches such as a Brie eggplant, roasted pepper, lettuce, olive paste and arugula mix (a reasonable $5.25). The roast chicken with pesto, sundried tomatoes and mozzarella ($4.75) made my mouth water for days and left me crying for more…more. There are a few desserts and a nice selection of beverages to top off your dinner. 

The crowd is mid-twenties to early thirties. The good thing about the Midtown is there’s something on the menu for everyone. The prices are reasonable and the service — well, the service is o.k. As for the booze, it’s mid-priced.

THE RIVOLI 332 Queen Street West

The Rivoli is cool. In the restaurant downstairs you can choose lunch or dinner from an eclectic Thai-influenced menu. Some of the food is great, but you pay dearly for it. A Miso soup will run you $4.25. The Pad Thai noodles are out of this world, but so is the price at a $9.75. Feel like a steak? Their ‘Tokyo Rose,’ grilled with teriaki sauce and served with tempura shrimp is $13.50. The service is typically Queen Street West — don’t ask for a smile or a thank you, and expect a serious attitude. 

One thing you can be sure of is that as far as live entertainment venues go, The Rivoli is one of the best for booking great shows. 

There are bars both upstairs and downstairs and their beverages are moderately priced; a domestic beer will run you $2.85 plus tax, a premium is $3.50, an import goes for $3.95. Upstairs if you feel like horsing around there are 13 pool tables and a couple of televisions.

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