By Diana J. Luciani
As a teenager, Allison Smith dreamed of becoming a model. She wanted to be like Monika Schnarre—the Scarborough girl who began modelling at 13 and within a year became the Supermodel of the World—earning $10,000 a day.
But in an attempt to reach such lofty goals, many like Smith are sacrificing—and losing—a lot. There is a virus spreading throughout the industry. Surely Toronto has more than 100 model and talent agencies but of these, sources say only about 25 per cent are reputable.
Smith is 5-foot-7 with the sort of big smile that advertisers die for. But she isn’t smiling now. “I really thought if she (Schnarre) could make it, then so could I.” 22-year-old Smith says.
At 17, Smith enrolled at Manhattan; a modelling agency in Mississauga, where she spent $1,500 to pursue a possible career. At the time, Smith weighed 170 lbs. and wore braces. After completing a video test and interview she was told she had what it takes to be a model. But, they said, she required a course to “polish” herself.
She took a course taught by supposed professionals in which she was to learn modelling, photo techniques and make-up application. But she wasn’t taught to model in front of a camera. Instead, she modelled in front of a mirror.
Smith remembers the agency’s manager, who seemed fresh out of college, and how all the “special girls” (tall, skinny blondes with blue eyes) continuously got bookings while she was left to admire them in awe.
Smith was shocked to hear that Manhattan isn’t a modelling agency; it’s a modelling school.
But she persisted. She later enrolled at what was The Big Bold and Beautiful—an uptown Toronto agency distinguished for women of larger sizes. Again she was required to take photos and courses. She was “so good,” the agency wanted her to appear on their headsheet; the agency’s list of top models passed around to prospective clientele. This cost her an extra $250.
Smith spent a grand total at The Big Bold and Beautiful of $2,000—more than three times the regulation fee set out by the Better Business Bureau’s Model and Talent Advisory Board.
As complaints against fraudulent agencies continued to pile up over the last five years, the Better Business Bureau of Metro Toronto created a board of reputable industry members last year to regulate and educate the public on unethical business practices.
The B.B.B’s regulation assesses the credibility of an agency by tracing track records, length of existence (at least one year), its code of ethics, and consumer relations records including complaints, charges and convictions.
But B.B.B’s president Paul Tuz says it’s hard to regulate these agencies based on such criteria because most have been in the business for over a year, and worst of all, have never had complaints laid against them because clients are too embarrassed to come forward and admit what happened.
The bureau asked members of the industry to help by setting their own standards. The regulation by the industry task force, including reputable agents, casting directors, drama instructors, government officials, scouts and watchdogs, is still in progress, since no standards have been finalized.
Industry watchdog/publisher/managing editor Morgan MacLeod of Moonlighters Publishing Inc. calls Smith’s agents ugly, “existing only to feed on vulnerable people with too many starry-eyed dreams but little knowledge of the realities of the business.”
“You can always check up on agencies by investigating their supposed clientele,” says MacLeod. “But the best way to judge is by their reputation.”
Tuz says that preying on dreams by raising false hope is the main reason why those who can least afford it “pour every last cent they have to invest in these leeches.”
Linda Strong, an agent of Penny Noble Model Management, says these agencies use “slick strategies” to lure clients. She believes people are desperate to be famous and in turn refuse rejection from reputable agencies and persist with others.
Strong says reputable agencies like hers become affected by these unscrupulous ones when a girl with full potential “perfect height, skin, and overall beauty” comes into her office with a bad portfolio that cannot be used for her representation. When Strong tries to explain what the girl’s photos should look like, the client puts Penny Noble in the same class as the scam artists—doing everything possible to get money.
“Once a girl has been led on by an agency and then bruised, it’s a hard wound to heal,” she says.
Holly Kristen, a former international model for 15 years and now a scout of her own Testing Board, says the entire situation is a “catch-22.”
“They (fraudulent agencies) are really smart at saying the right buzz words to make these kids believe in the possibility that tomorrow they’re going to be the next Linda Evangelista,” she says. “But the real world doesn’t work like that—it’s not an overnight success story.”
Smith says the agencies ripped her off, gave her false hope and caused her to question what was wrong with her.
“They essentially made me feel that I wasn’t good enough for anything,” she says.
Smith says she has learned her lesson with the profession.
“All they taught me was to walk down a runway and pout in front of a mirror, and to think I spent all that money to do it.”
So what does it take to be a successful model? The total package: a reputable agent and a presentable portfolio; the height requirement of 5-foot-9, with rare exceptions, modelling-type beauty of the proportioned body and strong bone structure in the face, attitude and ambition, patience, and most of all personality. Courses don’t teach you who you are inside.
“Your pictures have to say ‘This is me!'” says Kristen.
The “good guys” are willing to take time to educate the public out of fear that Canada won’t have any industry down the road if this disease continues.
Among suggested readings for aspiring supermodels are Modeling-Guide To Working In Canada by Angela Nowacin, and An Actor’s Guide to Agencies in Toronto by Moonlighter’s Publishing Inc. which provides a five-star rating of agencies in Metro as well as industry information.
Occasionally there are those “one-in-a-million” that come out of the woodwork. But in most cases, aspiring Canadian models will not become Linda Evangelista or Monika Schnarres. Kirsten stresses that the industry does not provide “a free ride.” If anything, it asks a high price for an unknown destination.
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